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When crafting a cookbook on pasta, a contact originally from Naples recommended treating lasagne like a architectural layout. This approach is to first determine the dimensions of your baking dish relative to the pasta sheets, then decide on the layer count to adequately balance the ingredients. We also concluded that building a lasagne should combine the methodical approach of a craftsman with the artistic flair of an abstract painter when adding the sauces.

Preparing the Pasta Sheets

My personal lasagne dish measures 30cm by 20cm, and three 4x10 inch dried lasagne sheets make up a complete tier. When making a stacked lasagne, you’ll need around fifteen pieces. Many contemporary dried lasagne eliminates the need for pre-cooking, but those sheets require a moist enough sauce to hydrate fully. Since the following dish uses a less watery sauce, I prefer to quickly blanch the sheets in boiling water for half a minute, then transfer them into a cool bath and lay them out on a kitchen towel to air-dry. This process shortens the total baking time, which protects the soft consistency of the summer squash and fresh cheese filling.

Flexible Cheese Options

Considering the expense of cheese—and also what is sitting in your cooler—this recipe offers a spectrum of quantities for the ricotta, parmesan and or semi-soft cheese. You can also use other cheeses based on what you have in stock, and balance with bold flavors and aromatic greens. The key to deepening the savor, however, is beginning by cooking the chopped squash in olive oil with a some seasoning. This is not to make them mushy—as they continue softening in the heat, blending into the cheese and bechamel which serves as a binding agent for the lasagne.

The Waiting Game

In my experience, lasagne is invariably enhanced if you allow it to sit for a minimum of 20 minutes before serving—and up to an hour in a gentle warmth. This rest time lets the tastes to mingle and the entire dish—particularly the cheese—to firm up. That way, it divides easily into portions. And of course, the last portion warmed up the following day is usually the ultimate reward.

Lasagne with Courgette and Three Cheeses

Serves four to six

15 lasagna noodles, to create a stacked dish

A generous splash olive oil, plus extra for oiling the dish

About 3-4 summer squashes, cubed into bite-size chunks

Salt and black pepper

400g soft white cheese

1 heaped tbsp freshly minced marjoram

About a third of a cup unsalted butter, additional for scattering

70g white flour

800ml rich milk

Fresh nutmeg

A good handful aged hard cheese, grated

100-200g melting cheese, cut into cubes

Two tablespoons toasted crumbs

Instructions

Handle the lasagne sheets following the box guidelines; if blanching them, set them on tea towels until needed.

Warm the oil in a frying pan over medium flame, then fry the cubed courgettes with a pinch of salt, moving them around until they just begin to soften. Remember they will keep cooking in the oven, so turn off the stove and set aside for about 10 minutes. Add the ricotta, herbs and another pinch of salt.

Warm the dairy butter in a pan, then mix in the white flour and stir to make a roux. Slowly whisk in the whole milk and keep heating, stirring constantly, until the creamy sauce reaches a creamy consistency. Season with salt and black pepper, a pinch of nutmeg and a bit of the shredded cheese.

Smear the bottom of an oven dish with oil, add a thin layer of the white sauce, then create a base layer of lasagna layers. Layer on another layer using one portion of the bechamel, topped with a quarter of the squash mixture, some of the cubed cheese and a handful of parmesan. Repeat with another noodle tier, then continue layering until used up, ending with a last sheet of lasagne. Cover that with the leftover cream, the breadcrumbs and dots of butter, then cook at 200°C (180°C fan)/390F for 20-30 minutes, or until the edges are bubbling and the surface is deeply colored.